Thursday, November 3, 2016

EL VENENO DE LA MODA 


Indisputably clothes are defined as being integral to human life. One of the necessities taught to us at an early age; an undeniable human right.  Few humans live without clothes and it is just one of the many ways that humans exert their human exceptionalism and hyper-separation with the rest of the natural world. With a burgeoning population of seven BILLION people and growing, we have to consider just how do we clothe all these people? But moreover, we have to consider with increasing affluence, comes increased consumption and fundamentally what effect this will have. 


In Zhejiang province China, Greenpeace International exposes the 'toxic' truth behind the fashion industry and how many international brands source their products here. However holding accountable individual suppliers of their release of hazardous substances is almost impossible. (Lance Lee/Greenpeace).
Through this blog, for my subject Global Environmental Change at UCL, I hope to explore and expose the environmental issues surrounding the materials, consumption practices and the poisons entwined within the fashion industry. Additionally though, I want to consider and critically analyse the solutions to such problems. As if an issue is framed in a reoccurring negative light it induces a sense of helplessness and fear within people. Therefore they are unable to take a proactive approach with their actions. Of which are possible to take if the process remains positive

To some this may also seem like an extremely trivial topic. However, I assure you that from the interest already acquired in this subject and the research I have done, this is not the case. Does the second largest industry polluter in the world behind only oil sound inconsequential? Repetitively, we think about oil spills seeping through the ocean, mines and even agriculture destroying biodiversity hotspots. However, we fail to recognise the origin and history of the clothes we wear. Furthermore, if we look past the point of individual consumption and thinking how does this add up on a global scale in relation to climate change and other unequivocal issues.  

Another of Greenpeace International's images; Shaoxing Binhai, China. An industrial zone with 9,000 textile mills, one-third of China's dyeing and printing capacity. 17 billion meters of dyed fabric and 130 billion items of clothing produced in 2010. (Qiu Bo/Greenpeace).
Additionally on the industrial scale, just how are all these garments produced? What countries economies are stimulated by the fashion industry? As clothes become cheaper the environment only grows as an externality of production and consumption. What pollution effects do the dyes have, and chemicals to wash and treat natural fibres; with air, water and soil pollution? Thus what impact do these materials have on land-system change and consequently biodiversity? Cotton is known to be extremely energy hungry and tremendously rich in embodied water; a pair of jeans and t-shirt can contain over 5,000 gallons of embodied water. But comparatively artificial materials have a carbon input. So what materials then should people consume? 

Dye run off in Tipur, India. 
In our consumeristic and materialistic societies we constantly seek instant gratification. So how are our consumption habits influenced with increased social pressures? I hope to talk about the social theories and why people consume the way they do. Moreover, how globalisation only makes this easier with long supply chains; therefore clothes being shipped around the world and the snowballing online shopping industry. There is also a false sense of justification and contentment when people give away their clothes to op-shops. However, are these clothes actually recycled? The United States donates or recycles just 15 percent of their clothes. Which leaves 10.5 million tons of clothes in land fills every year. Such expendable and perpetual growth on our one and only finite planet is not possible. Consequently social norms and the way people think and act need to change. Therefore through this blog I will be endeavour to uncover the perils of the issues that I have discussed and what actions that we collectively can take. 

A dyeing factory in Shaoxing Binhai industrial zone. This plant has five dyeing machine that need about 250kg of dyestuff. Combined with other additives, approximately 2,500kg of dyestuff circulates this plant every day. Such additives and dyes are toxic to a wide range of organisms and are known or suspected carcinogens. (Qiu Bo/Greenpeace).